Here's a few more pics of our Javelin nostalgia drag car construction from today.
As she sits now. A work in progress...
The trunk is sealed off as per track rules. A 5 gal fuel cell and the battery are in the trunk.
The rad support is modifed to make it removable so we can get the engine in and out more quickly. There will be no power steering or power brakes, which frees up room under the hood. The BB Mopar is a VERY tight fit in the AMC engine bay.
Like every unrestored old car here in the rust belt, our Javelin needed new floors welded in. The previous owner had butchered the transmission hump for some reason, so that also needed to be fixed.
Our garage helper is a real Weiner...Maybe Kiki thinks this car is going to be a dog!
So our Javelin is coming along, bit by bit. We're used to working on motorcycles, so in building a race car we're learning (1) how big everything is (2) how time consuming! This has been a fun learning experience so far!
Post by harrydhat77 on Feb 20, 2014 12:02:31 GMT -5
Something to think about as far as getting power to the ground and tying the sub frame and uni body together if you haven't yet. You might want to look into Control Freak sub frame connectors ($229.00) to tie the front and rear of the car together . Also Calvert Racing Cal Tracs ($339.00) to prevent spring wrap up and provide adjustability . Check to see if they are allowed first . The sub frame connectors might also allow you a mounting point for the main hoop for a roll bar if required . Hope this helps . Also , if you have a problem getting the weight of the car down where you want , and if allowed , A tubular K member . I don't know how good you are at fabrication , and if you would have the equipment to do so . It would also have the benefit of possibly getting the engine lower in the car . Looks like things are progressing nicely .
Post by harrydhat77 on Feb 20, 2014 12:24:19 GMT -5
Using the original curb weight of a 1974 Javelin (2836) and the horsepower you provided (400) , Your predicted ET/MPH is 11.19/121.80 . You might want to look into getting rid of the clutch fan and go to an electric fan . The clutch fan uses power , and adds more weight .
Hi, thanks for the input and the math! We'll be quite a bit lighter than stock; based on all the stuff we've already stripped from the car we'll be in the 2500lb range. You are right on about traction concerns; we had the car mocked together last year with a bone stock 400 chrysler/727 and 3:23 gears and drove it on the street with a trip permit...ya, that was socially irresponsible but really FUN! Anyway, even with 275/60/15 street tires and a tired engine and street gearing the car still spun the tires easily off the line. The added weight of the big Chrysler engine up front certainly didn't help weight transfer any.
My dad is making subframe connectors as we speak. Caltracs would be sweet, but they are out of our budget at this point. What we've done to help traction is modify the leaf spring packs so they are tied together in front of the rear axle but loose behind the axle. The leaf bands we made are removable so we can add and subtract leafs easily at the at the track. We also used poly spring bushings and 3-way adjustable drag shocks on the rear. We will use solid motor mounts that should help stiffen up the car a little as well. We haven't thought too much about the front suspension yet, other than travel limiting straps and drag shocks.
For tires we will start with 10" wide slicks, but we'll be tuning with different tire height and width until we see what the engine likes. One of the several tracks we plan on running is only an 1/8th mile, so assuming traction is ok we might use shorter tires on the 1/8th mile than we do on 1/4 mile to effectively gear the car down a little. I was originally going to use an electric fan, but since we decided to keep things ultra simple by not using an alternator I figured the less electrical draw the better. We'll see how the clutch fan holds up to high rpm, and if there is a problem with clutch fan cooling/reliablity or with the mechanical fuel pump not flowing enough I will install an alternator so I can use an electric fan and electric fuel pump.
I'm not quite sure yet about a roll bar/cage...if during test and tune sessions we find we need to install one we'll either do it or install a throttle limiter to keep the car just slow enough to pass tech this season. Everything always seems a lot slower at the track, so maybe we'll be ok without one for now...
Post by harrydhat77 on Feb 20, 2014 13:38:00 GMT -5
It's kind of tricky . When you go through tech , they could look at the car and tell you that you need a roll bar . NHRA says any car faster than 11.49 1/4 , 7.35 1/8 requires a 5 point roll bar . Something else , Any car faster than 13.99 1/4 running slicks requires a drive shaft loop . Don't know if the Tracks are NHRA sanctioned . Giving your estimated weight and horsepower 10.73/127.03 MPH . With the throttle limiter , is it allowed ? You want a tall front tire to give you more roll out . Maybe you could search racejunk.com for parts available in your area . Not trying to give you a hard time , just don't want to see you turned away at tech . It sounds like you have the ability to fabricate some parts . Maybe you could look at the Cal Trac and fab yourself .
Thanks I totally appreciate your input! We were planning on making a good driveshaft loop. Good idea about front tire diameter too. I'll talk to my dad about putting in a 5-point roll bar, it would help stiffen the car and maybe if we get creative we can find another place to carve some weight to offset the weight of the roll bar tubing.
Post by harrydhat77 on Feb 20, 2014 14:48:30 GMT -5
What sanctioning body are you racing under , National Nostalgia Super Stock Association ? Look in the rule book an see if they allow a tubular cross member . It would be lighter and stiffer than the one in your photo . Also , since your battery is mounted in the trunk you'll need a " master cutoff switch " .
Post by harrydhat77 on Feb 20, 2014 16:37:54 GMT -5
Another thing to think about . When you go to put the 440 crank in , did you look at the possibility of having the rod journals ground to Big Block Chevy journal size ? They might be cheaper , you might have a bigger selection , they might be lighter , and easier to obtain . The bottom end will weigh less with a smaller journal size . With a longer rod you will increase the dwell at the top of the stroke and the crank angle will be less severe , saving wear on the engine . I believe that it also has the effect of having more cam in the engine because of the increased dwell at TDC .
Thanks for your input, I will keep your idea in mind when I do swap to a 440 crank. Hopefully we'll run this season reliably with the 400, but if (and when) it busts a gut I'll build it a little hotter with a 440 crank. We haven't done too much the last few days because everyone around here has caught colds. I'll post more photos of the Javelin once the snot stops flowing the wrenches start spinning again. I also have to inventory, photograph and post on e-bay a bunch of interior parts that will hopefully be of use to another Javelin owner that wants to restore one for the street.
blown240: Kingsnova: I have a couple of those hubs.... Ill sell you a hub or parts or whatever. Send me a PM
May 30, 2018 12:32:08 GMT -5
kingsnova: Hello all, I just bought a used 26" Mongoose Beast fat tire at a garage sale $140.00. Good deal till the rear bearings were loose and broke the axle. Anyone know how I can get parts to fix it?
May 28, 2018 15:55:56 GMT -5
blown240: IM selling my boys Fatbike it anyone is interested....
Mar 30, 2018 14:48:19 GMT -5